Flapless pockets set into the jacket like a slit with a plain opening.
Besom pockets covered by a flap.
Pockets set diagonally instead of horizontally.
A narrow, single pocket set above a flap pocket. Often a sign of a custom suit, the presence of this novelty ofttimes is a sign of quality.
A vent allows for both a tailored fit and easy movement. A center vent is traditional; two side vents are more modern and give the jacket a more fitted silhouette.
One Button Jacket
Traditionally was reserved for tuxedos, in recent years the one button jacket has become more popular in less formal wear. It looks great in peaked lapel suits and with a modern silhouette.
Two Button Jacket
The most common jacket, it’s timeless and flattering on most body types because its V points the eye to the slimmest point of a man’s waist (the area near the top button).
Three Button Jacket
Relatively trend proof, the three button jacket is traditional and flattering on most body types, though is a common choice for taller men.
The inside of the jacket. Usually linings coordinate subtly with the color of the jacket. Brightly colored linings can be a sign of quality, individuality, and flair.
Lapels that point upward. While not as common as notched lapels, peaked lapels have become much more popular in recent years and give a more elegant look.
Lapels that point sideways. They are the most conservative choice.
A method for attaching cloth to the interlining using temporary stitches that will be removed after the parts of the garment are sewn together. This method uses canvas and other materials that can be molded to the shape of a person’s body. Basting is the traditional method and is more time consuming
A method for constructing a suit jacket using glues and adhesives. A non-woven paper or plastic product saturated with glue bonds the cloth you see to the interlining you don’t see. It gives the cloth more rigidity and form, a good alternative with very fine wools, but does not mold as easily due to its stiffness. It is the most common method used today for suits.
Visible stitches around the lapels and edge of the jacket. Pick stitching conveys craftsmanship and touch of old-fashioned tailoring.
Also called “Surgeon’s Cuffs”, working buttons are functional and can be unbuttoned to allow the sleeves to be rolled up. Working buttons on a suit are indicative of a custom made suit.
Cuff buttons that don’t have any functionality, they are just for show.
Refers to the length of the crotch to the waistband. The rise on a pair of suit trousers should fit as high and close as possible, as it makes moving easier and decreases the stress on the fabric.
Refers to how much of the bottom of the trousers meet the shoes.
Covers almost the whole top of the shoe and leaves a deep horizontal crease at the front of the pant leg.
The most popular option, this break stops at the highest point of the instep of the shoe.
Covers just the top quarter inch of the shoe. Currently a fashion-forward choice, it can give the appearance of the pants being a bit too short.
The most common tie knot, it can be worn with any collar style. It gives a clean and simple look, its slight asymmetry handsomely offsets the balanced lines of the shirt and suit.
The biggest and bulkiest knot, it goes nicely paired with a spread collar.
Not as large as the windsor and a touch more formal than the four-in-hand, its goes well with any occasion.
A small piece of fabric worn in the jacket pocket. Oft times nothing more than a handkerchief folded neatly into straight lines, a pocket square can also be much more colorful and decorative. It’s a great finishing touch that needn’t be overdone to lend distinction, modernity, and luxury to your look. The pocket square should not match your tie.
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