GLOSSARY

Besom Pockets


Flapless pockets set into the jacket like a slit with a plain opening.

Flap Pockets


Besom pockets covered by a flap.

Slanted Pockets


Pockets set diagonally instead of horizontally.

Ticket Pocket


A narrow, single pocket set above a flap pocket.  Often a sign of a custom suit, the presence of this novelty ofttimes is a sign of quality.

Vents


A vent allows for both a tailored fit and easy movement.  A center vent is traditional; two side vents are more modern and give the jacket a more fitted silhouette. 

One Button Jacket


Traditionally was reserved for tuxedos, in recent years the one button jacket has become more popular in less formal wear.  It looks great in peaked lapel suits and with a modern silhouette.



Two Button Jacket


The most common jacket, it’s timeless and flattering on most body types because its V points the eye to the slimmest point of a man’s waist (the area near the top button). 

Three Button Jacket


Relatively trend proof, the three button jacket is traditional and flattering on most body types, though is a common choice for taller men.

Lining


The inside of the jacket.  Usually linings coordinate subtly with the color of the jacket.  Brightly colored linings can be a sign of quality, individuality, and flair.

Peaked Lapels

Lapels that point upward.  While not as common as notched lapels, peaked lapels have become much more popular in recent years and give a more elegant look. 

Notched Lapels


Lapels that point sideways. They are the most conservative choice.

Hand Basted


A method for attaching cloth to the interlining using temporary stitches that will be removed after the parts of the garment are sewn together.  This method uses canvas and other materials that can be molded to the shape of a person’s body.  Basting is the traditional method and is more time consuming 

Fused


A method for constructing a suit jacket using glues and adhesives.  A non-woven paper or plastic product saturated with glue bonds the cloth you see to the interlining you don’t see.  It gives the cloth more rigidity and form, a good alternative with very fine wools, but does not mold as easily due to its stiffness.  It is the most common method used today for suits.

Pick Stitching


Visible stitches around the lapels and edge of the jacket.  Pick stitching conveys craftsmanship and touch of old-fashioned tailoring. 

Working Buttons


Also called “Surgeon’s Cuffs”, working buttons are functional and can be unbuttoned to allow the sleeves to be rolled up.  Working buttons on a suit are indicative of a custom made suit.

Show buttons


Cuff buttons that don’t have any functionality, they are just for show.

Rise


Refers to the length of the crotch to the waistband.  The rise on a pair of suit trousers should fit as high and close as possible, as it makes moving easier and decreases the stress on the fabric.

Break


Refers to how much of the bottom of the trousers meet the shoes.

Full Break


Covers almost the whole top of the shoe and leaves a deep horizontal crease at the front of the pant leg.

Medium Break


The most popular option, this break stops at the highest point of the instep of the shoe.

Short Break


Covers just the top quarter inch of the shoe.  Currently a fashion-forward choice, it can give the appearance of the pants being a bit too short.

Four-in-hand Knot


The most common tie knot, it can be worn with any collar style.  It gives a clean and simple look, its slight asymmetry handsomely offsets the balanced lines of the shirt and suit.

Windsor Knot


The biggest and bulkiest knot, it goes nicely paired with a spread collar. 

Half-Windsor Knot


Not as large as the windsor and a touch more formal than the four-in-hand, its goes well with any occasion.

Pocket Square


A small piece of fabric worn in the jacket pocket.  Oft times nothing more than a handkerchief folded neatly into straight lines, a pocket square can also be much more colorful and decorative.  It’s a great finishing touch that needn’t be overdone to lend distinction, modernity, and luxury to your look.  The pocket square should not match your tie. 


If you have any additional questions, feel free to contact us.